Learn how to make a unique wooden headboard this weekend.
A headboard can make a huge difference in your bedroom. You can switch out your headboard to quickly go from a classic look to a modern farmhouse feel (or any other style you choose).
For us, it wasn’t a matter of changing our headboard. it was a matter of actually making one.
After we finished our canopy bed (get the plans here!), we vowed to make our DIY headboard the following weekend. Well, 78 weekends later and we finally built and installed our headboard!
Hopefully you haven’t waited 78 weeks to actually get started on yours.
Alright, let’s start DIYing!
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What You’ll Need to make a DIY headboard
Note: if you don’t have a wood canopy bed, your shopping list should also include 2x4s or 4x4s for the legs.
How to make a wooden headboard
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Since we have a canopy bed, we didn’t have to worry about making the headboard able to stand. If you don’t have a canopy bed, don’t worry. You can follow all of the instructions and then add some legs at the end.
If your headboard is not for a California King, your pattern will turn out slightly different. You can still have the same boards and the same angles, but some boards will be shorter/longer or have more/less spacing around them.
The ONLY tools you need to DIY
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STEP 1: MAKE THE FRAME
First, measure your bed to determine your measurements. We had a 72″ opening from post to post, so we cut two 1x2s to 72″. Then we used the remainder of each board (24″) as the vertical boards. This will make our final headboard dimensions 72 x 27″.
Drill pocket holes on each end of all of your 1x2s.
Attach your 1x2s using glue and screws, making sure that all the pocket holes are on the backside of the headboard. We positioned our vertical 1x2s 1″ in from the edge of the top and bottom 1x2s. The Kreg Multi-Mark tool makes consistent measurements a breeze.
STEP 2: MAKE YOUR PATTERN
If you like our pattern, you can download our guide here. It’ll show you what size boards we used where and give you a guide on how to cut them. It doesn’t include exact measurements because I promise this is going to be easier and more accurate to measure and cut as you go along.
All of our angles are either 45-degrees or 90-degrees.
Start by cutting your first board and any boards that span across your entire headboard. These will be your guides that determine the sizing of everything else.
Then work your way around the pattern (I highly recommend you sketch it out first or download our guide to make this go quicker), measuring and cutting one piece at a time.
To get a measurement, place the board you’re cutting on top of the existing pattern and mark where it intersects with the current pattern. No need to actually measure!
STEP 3: DRILL POCKET HOLES
For the next 2 steps, it’s imperative that you work on one piece at a time and put the piece back into position once you’re done. This will help you keep track of which pieces go where so the assembly isn’t a nightmare in the end.
Drill the following number of pocket holes on each board:
- 1x3s: 2 on each side for a total of 4
- 1x4s: 2 on each side for a total of 4
- 1x6s: 4 on each side for a total of 8
Note: there were a few small pieces that I just drill one pocket hole in each direction.
STEP 4: SAND YOUR BOARDS
We sanded everything using 80-grit sandpaper, then 120. You can continue with 220 or even 320 if you want an even smoother finish.
STEP 5: STAIN YOUR BOARDS
We wanted to be able to stain both sides of the boards at once, so we compromised our pattern at this step.
We kept it organized by creating “columns”, with each long full-length board being the separator for a new column. As we stained each board, we stood them up on their sides to dry in order from top to bottom for each column.
P.S. Check out our Ultimate Guide to Staining Wood for tips on getting the best finish!
STEP 6: ASSEMBLE YOUR HEADBOARD
This is where it is really helpful to have our PDF design plans or your design clearly sketched out so that you can refer to your pattern to get general directions and spacing.
First, place all of your boards where they belong. Make sure all of the pocket holes are facing the back of the headboard, including the pocket holes on the frame.
Once everything is in place, remove one piece, glue either side and then screw it in. Repeat (glue + screws) until your entire headboard is secured.
STEP 7: INSTALL YOUR HEADBOARD
If you are not installing your headboard to a canopy bed, you’ll want to attach it to some legs before installing. We recommend 4x4s so that they can stand on their own, but you could also use 2x4s. Once you attach the legs using glue and the pocket holes on your top and bottom boards, you can go ahead and install your headboard to your bed frame.
For extra stability, you can also add a third leg in the middle. This leg will only go from the bottom of the frame to the ground.
If you are installing your headboard to a canopy bed, simply position it at the height you want and then install using the pocket holes you drilled in step 1.
We also added a support board to the middle of ours (it’s hidden by the mattress) that spans from the bottom of the headboard frame to the top of the bed frame.
For reference, we installed our headboard so that the top was 47″ from the ground.
There you have it! You now have a unique and beautiful wooden headboard that you can’t buy in stores.
If you’re eyeing that canopy bed of ours, you can make one yourself! We have the dimensions for twin, double, queen, king, and California king beds all spelled out for you.