DIY

DIY Large Slatted Planter Plans

I’m Zoe.
My mission is to teach you to  confidently build magazine-worthy DIYs. I used to be terrified of power tools, which is why I'm a firm believer that ANYONE can DIY.
Get The Getting Started Guide
Gimme that

One of my early DIY projects was actually a tall slatted planter similar to the one we’re building today. But this time, I’m making it even larger. This massive outdoor planter is about 4’ wide, 32” tall, and almost 2’ deep.

Despite the large size, we were able to build two planters for right around $300 using pressure-treated wood. Good luck trying to find a planter box this tall and wide for that price! 

DIY large slatted planter by outdoor patio

We made these planters to flank either side of our deck stairs and wanted them to match the design of our DIY planter privacy screen. It’s basically the same planter that we have over there, but a little taller. I’m not sure why I have a thing for super tall planters, but I do. 

Alright, let’s start DIYing! 

Recommended Tools: 

  • Nail Gun 
  • Miter Saw 
  • Drill 
  • Kreg Jig 
  • Staple Gun

What You’ll Need For One Planter:

Cut List:

Prefer printable plans and visual cut lists that show you how to minimize waste? Grab the printable plans!

For What?Wood SizeQuantitySize (inches)
Front/Back Top/Bottom2×4446
Front/Back Sides2×4624
Middle Connectors2×4718
Small Slats1×23021
Large Slats1×23047.5
Front/Back Frame1×4247.5
Side Frames1×4215.5
Middle Slats5/4×6 346

How to Make a Large Planter Box 

If you’re planning to use pressure-treated lumber on this project, buy it early! Pressure-treated lumber is generally pretty wet at the store, and you need to let it dry out before you can cut or stain it. We bought ours about a month before completing the project and let it dry outside in the sun as much as possible. 

STEP 1: CUT THE 2x4s AND 5/4s DOWN TO SIZE

Following the cut list above, cut your 2x4s and 5/4” deck boards to size. For the middle slats, you can cut them between 42-46” long. These do not need to be precise and it’s better to err on the side of being too small than too long. 

STEP 2: DRILL POCKET HOLES

Using the 1.5” settings, drill (2) pocket holes on either end of the 24” and 18” 2x4s. 

Pocket holes are the foundation of most DIY furniture. Become a pocket hole pro in less than an hour in Pocket Holes: Explained.

STEP 3: STAIN 

We chose to stain early on in this project because we didn’t want to have to worry about evenly applying the stain in between all the individual slats later. 

This was the longest step of the entire project, so another option you might consider is using a paint sprayer to apply your stain at the end of the project. 

STEP 4: ASSEMBLE THE FRONT/BACK PIECES 

We will assemble (2) identical structures for the front and back. 

Grab your 24” 2x4s and your 46” 2x4s. Using 2.5” exterior Kreg screws, attach a 24” piece to either end of your 46” pieces. 

Then attach a 24” piece in the middle of the two 46” pieces. 

assembling 2x4s with kreg screws

STEP 5: ADD THE MIDDLE CONNECTORS 

On one of the pieces you assembled in step 4, attach the middle connectors using 2.5” exterior Kreg screws.

First we’ll place a middle connector approximately 9.5” down from the top. This will result in our planter area being about 8.5” deep. You can adjust this measurement to make it more or less deep based on what kind of plants you are hoping to grow. 

We used a scrap piece of wood as a spacer to keep the distance consistent across all 3 on the connectors. 

using scrap board as spacer

Next, install a middle connector on each corner of the planters. 

STEP 6: CONNECT THE FRONT AND BACK 

Flip the side with the middle connectors installed onto the second piece you assembled in step 4. Line up the middle connectors and screw them in with 2.5” exterior Kreg screws.

planter box main structure made from 2x4s

STEP 7: CUT THE SLATS 

Now that you have the main structure assembled, you can cut all of the slats. Before cutting the slats, confirm your measurements with the final measurements of the main structure. 

The short slat measurements will match the short sides, and the long slats will be the length of the long sides + 1.5”.

We set clamped a spare board to our miter saw stand and workbench to create a stop. This allowed us to quickly make repeat cuts without needing to measure between each cut.

STEP 8: INSTALL THE SLATS 

To install the slats, we’ll use clear construction adhesive and 1.5” nails. Start by securing the top slats. They should be flush with the top of the planter. 

adding clear construction adhesive to wood slats

Once you’ve secured just the top piece on each side, flip your planter over so that the top is on the ground. 

To make installation easier, we clamped a scrap board flush with the side of the planter. This allowed me to quickly push the slats up against the scrap wood instead of making sure the slats were lined up on either side. 

We used a scrap piece of ½” plywood as a spacer between each of the slats to get consistent spacing. 

nailing slats and using 1/2" spacer

Install the short slats first and then touch up the end grains of the slats with stain. 

Then install the long slats. As you’re installing the long slats, continue using the spacer, but focus on lining up the ends up with the short side slats that are already installed, even if that means your spacing doesn’t perfectly align with the spacer itself. 

STEP 9: INSTALL THE MIDDLE SLATS 

Place your middle slats into the planter box so that they are evenly spaced. There will be slight gaps between the boards. 

placing deck boards in the bottom of the planter

Use 2” nails at alternating angles to secure the middle slats. By alternating the angles of the nails, you “lock” the boards into place. If you were to just nail straight in, you would be able to pull the boards right up.


STEP 10: INSTALL THE TARP 

Staple your tarp along the inside of the planter and then cut off the excess. We also decided to line the bottom half of the planter so that the gaps between the slats were black instead of letting the light shine through. 

Cut some holes in the bottom of the tarp that align with the gaps in the middle slats. These will allow for drainage.

center of planter lined with tarp


STEP 11: ADD THE TOP FRAME

Cut your top frame pieces down to size and then install using clear construction adhesive and 1.5” nails. The outside of the 1×4 will be flush with the top 1x2s. The inside of the 1x4s will overhang into the planter slightly. 

nailing 1x4 to top of planter

There you have it! Now you have your very own large slatted planter. These planters are heavy so you definitely don’t need to worry about them tipping over when it’s windy! 

Don’t forget to grab your printable plans!

make this large slatted planter! text overlay on images of building the planter
Add a comment
+ show Comments
- Hide Comments

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published.

Join the List

Our mission: give you the resources to build magazine-worthy furniture.

First up? Sharing the 5 key steps to getting started with DIY.

 Get  the best DIY tutorials, project inspiration, and  DIY tips sent straight to your inbox weekly.

Get My Getting Started with DIY Guide as a free gift!

Find your next project

Premium, printable plans

3D renderings, detailed shopping lists, cut lists displayed two ways (both in chart form and visually), AND a bonus SketchUp file. Printable plans don't get better than this.

See the plans
diy with confidence

Our Courses

Whether you're just getting started or you're a seasoned DIYer who's ready to unlock the full potential of DIY, our courses are here to help.

SEE OUR COURSES

Instagram

Join us for project tutorials, behind-the-scenes, and quick DIY tips and tricks.

@pineandpoplardiy_