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DIY Outdoor Table Plans

I’m Zoe.
My mission is to teach you to  confidently build magazine-worthy DIYs. I used to be terrified of power tools, which is why I'm a firm believer that ANYONE can DIY.
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Gimme that

As part of my mom’s patio update, we built this easy DIY outdoor table. I know a lot of people get intimidated by dining tables because of their size, but this project really is pretty straightforward. There aren’t any angles to cut, so it’s a great beginner-friendly table.

DIY outdoor table text overlay on image on wooden outdoor dining table with black chairs

The top is slatted to allow water to drip through the slats rather than just sitting on the tabletop for days after a rainstorm.

We also finished it with a Spar Urethane which is our favorite outdoor finish. It’s very water-resistant and holds up well even to the harsh UV rays outside.

Alright, let’s start DIYing!

Recommended Tools:

  • Miter Saw
  • Drill
  • Kreg Jig
  • Nail Gun
  • Optional: Table Saw

What You’ll Need

  • 7- 2x4x8 boards*
  • 2- 2x2x8 board*
  • 10- 1x4x8 boards
  • Wood glue
  • 2.5″ exterior wood screws
  • 2.5″ exterior Kreg screws
  • 2.5” nails
  • Stain + sealer (we highly recommend Spar Urethane)
  • Leveling feet

*We built our table using 2x6x8 pine boards and cut them down on our table saw to be the size of 2x4s and 2x2s. You can do this or buy the lumber that’s already the correct dimensions as specified in the cut list. Cutting down 2x6s will give your wood a more squared-off look, but requires more work. You’ll need (6) 2x6x8s if you go this route.

Cut list

Get the complete cut list in the printable plans.

3D rendering of outdoor table with dimensions (72 long, 38 wide, 29.25 tall)

How to Build an Outdoor Dining Table

New to DIY? Download our free 5 Steps to Getting Start with DIY guide!

how to build an outdoor table text overlay on image of DIY table on patio

STEP 1: MAKE THE LEGS

To make the legs, start by gluing (2) 2x4s* together using a generous amount of glue. Leave them clamped for 24 hours before moving any further. You can cut them to size before or after gluing. I’d recommend after so that both ends are flush.

*If you do not have a table saw, I’d recommend getting 4x4s for your legs instead of gluing together two purchased 2x4s. Due to the rounded edges of 2” lumber, it will be clear that you glued together two boards to make the leg. To achieve the look of a solid leg made from one board without a table saw, use 4x4s.

STEP 2: DRILL POCKET HOLES

All pocket holes will be drilled using the 1.5″ setting.

Drill two pocket holes on each end of the following pieces:

  • sides
  • leg beams
  • leg supports
  • 2 of the 6 of the short supports
  • 1 of the 3 long supports
drilling pocket holes

STEP 3: ASSEMBLE LEGS

Grab a leg beam and place it between two legs, 2” from the bottom.

Attach with glue and 2.5” Kreg screws. Make sure your pocket holes are facing down towards the ground.

Repeat with the other two legs and leg beam.

attaching 4x4s to make leg base

STEP 4: ASSEMBLE THE FRAME

Attach a 69” side between the 38” front and back pieces using glue and 2.5” Kreg screws.

Next, attach a 10” short support using glue and 2.5” screws. Pre-drill using a 1/8” drill bit before adding your screws.

The 10” support should be flush with the corner of your side and front pieces and indented 3/4” up. Your top slats will eventually sit on top of these supports, so we want to indent them the correct amount so that the top slats are flush with the top of the frame in the end.

To get the correct spacing without measuring, place some of your 1×4 slats underneath your short support board as you screw it in place.

Once your first short support board is in, grab a 35” leg support and line it up with the side, top and bottom of the support board you already have in place. Secure it in place using glue and 2.5” Kreg screws.

attaching 2x4s to make frame

Then grab a 42” long support board and attach using glue and 2.5” screws. Remember to pre-drill before adding your screws.

Then add the second 35” leg support using glue and 2.5” Kreg screws. Finally, attach a 10” short support board using glue and 2.5” screws.

As you’re attaching each of these boards, place some 1×4 top slats underneath them to ensure you’re maintaining the proper spacing. Each of the boards should be indented 3/4” from the top of the table (which is currently facing down towards the table or ground).

Once your first short support board is in, grab a 35” leg support and line it up with the side, top and bottom of the support board you already have in place. Secure it in place using glue and 2.5” Kreg screws.

overhead shot of first half of table base

Next we’ll attach the middle supports using glue and 2.5” Kreg screws.Your supports will be placed 15.25” from the supports you already installed.

Once you have the middle supports installed, we can move onto the second side.

First attach the 69” side to the front/back of the table using glue and 2.5” Kreg screws.

Then add each of the support boards, working your way from front to back: 10” short support, leg support, 42” long support, leg support, 10” short support.

As you attach each board, make sure that they are still indented 3/4” from the top of the table.

assembling full table base on top of workbench

STEP 5: ATTACH THE LEGS TO THE TOP

Place your top on the legs, making sure that the side where the supports are indented 3/4” is facing up.

The legs will be lined up with the leg support boards and should be indented 3.5” in from either side of the leg support boards.

Using a 1/8” drill bit, pre-drill 3 holes through the leg supports and into each of the legs.

Secure with 2.5” screws. Each leg will have 3 screws.

STEP 6: STAIN AND SEAL

You can decide to do this step at the very end, but with all the slats on the table, I think it’s much easier to stain and seal everything before finishing assembly.

Before staining, sand everything with 120-220 grit sandpaper.

For this table, we used Minwax Water-Based Wood Finish tinted to Weathered Oak. We then sealed it with Minwax Water-Based Spar Urethane in Satin. It’s a really beautiful color, but I had a lot of trouble photographing it in different lighting. Below is the most true-to-life color.

DIY outdoor table in garage after being stained with Minwax Weathered Oak stain and sealed with Spar Urethane

The Spar Urethane makes this table pretty much waterproof and suitable for outdoors. The Spar Urethane is great for protecting your wood again water and UV rays.

STEP 7: INSTALL THE SLATS

Before attaching your slats, mock up the spacing. In an ideal world, there should be a 1/8” gap between the front/back frame and your slats on either end as well as a 1/8” gap between each of your boards.

It’s important to mock-up the spacing ahead of time because not all 1x4s are exactly 3.5”, which means your gaps might need to be larger or smaller than the ideal 1/8” spacing.

Once you have everything spaced out, use glue and (4) 2.5” nails to secure each of your slats to the supports, (2) nails on each end. Try to keep all of your nails in a straight line as you work your way down your tabletop.

STEP 8: INSTALL THE LEVELING FEET

Install the leveling feet according to the instructions provided for the particular ones you purchased.

There you have it! Now you know how to build your very own outdoor dining table! This DIY outdoor table can very comfortably sit 6-8 people.

The slats allow water to fall through the cracks rather than sitting on the tabletop for days after a rainstorm, making it perfect for outside.

Don’t forget to grab your printable plans for this table!

covered patio with dining table, large artwork, and black chairs
DIY dining table on patio with pink planter centerpiece
side view of DIY outdoor table
make this DIY table text overlay on graphic of in process shots and picture of completed dining table
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  1. Laurel says:

    Hi Zoe,
    What a gorgeous table! I just purchased the plans and can’t wait to get started on the project. I was wondering what kind of wood you used for the table.

    • Zoe Hunt says:

      Hi Laurel! I’m glad you’re looking forward to it. Can’t wait to see yours! We built our table using 2x6x8 pine boards and cut them down on our table saw to be the size of 2x4s and 2x2s, but you could get 2x4s and 2x2s from the start. It was just cheaper for us to get 2x6s. Nothing fancy. Just cheap pine from Lowes 🙂

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